Our hand-crafted chinstraps work great for hats with chinstrap hooks. But how can you take advantage of the quality of kangaroo leather when you don’t have hooks?
David Morgan’s new stampede string work simply by slipping the cotter pins underneath the sweatband and then bending the pins to keep the hooks in place.
Follow these simple instructions and you’re set!
Hold the cotter pins together and slide them between the stitches at the base of the sweatband. A pair of pliers can be helpful.
Pull them all the way through until the leather braid touches the sweatband.
Bend the pins outward, as close to horizontal as possible, so they will not slip back through the sweatband.
In the days when hat stores were as common as coffee shops today, most hatters reserved a part of the store for renovating and shaping hats. While ninety percent of customers could walk out the door with a pre-blocked hat, the remainder needed extra shaping. Heads can range from slightly wide or long to potato-shaped.
The shape of the hat does not come from the crown. It is actually the brim that holds the shape. For example, when we steam a hat into a long oval, we smooth out the ripple that forms from deforming the shape of the brim.
The device used to modify a hat is called a conformitor. It is made up of two parts: the conformitor and the formillion. The conformitor sits atop the head, one quarter inch deeper than where the hat would sit. This pushes the keys out in accordance with the variations of the head, which moves the pins at the top.
A piece of paper called the conform is placed at the top and pushed onto the pins. Think of the paper as a negative. When removed, it is cut just barely outside the perforated ring. Then the formillion sits atop the paper conform. Each key is loosened and pushed inward till it just touches the edge of the paper. When all the keys are in place, the thumbscrews are tightened.
The formillion is placed inside of the hat after the brim has been warmed. Warming the felt softens the felt and makes it pliable.
Once inside, a device called a tolliker is used to push at the upper side of the brim. This smoothes out the brim, which then holds the crown shape.
The conformitor atop Will Morgan’s head.
Slipping the paper into place. The cork frame then is pressed down to get the conform.
Close-up of the conformitor with paper. The impression is called the conform.
Paper conform trimmed around the perforation made by the conformitor’s pins
Formillion keys aligned with the conform.
Formillion and conformitor
Conforms of various head shapes, taken from the book, “Scientific Hat Finishing and Renovating” by Henry L. Ermatinger, 1919. Many head shapes are uneven.
We’re looking for customers who wouldn’t mind appearing on the David Morgan website. Send us a photograph of yourself in any hat that you have purchased from David Morgan.
We’d like to place your photograph with that particular hat under our ‘more images’ tab. If you would like, please also send in your first name and location.
We will also have a blog page with everyone’s submission. Send your photo to [email protected]
After this year’s long winter, we’re all ready to make the most out of summer. But amidst the picnics, camping and golf, we can’t forget to protect our heads.
Tilley’s Airflo fits the bill. It weighs a mere four ounces and offers excellent skin protection with a UPF rating of 50+. UPF stands for Ultraviolet Protection Factor and unlike SPF (Sunlight Protection Factor), the rating includes standards for both Ultraviolet A and Ultraviolet B waves.
The crown contains a polyester mesh for ventilation. Tilley fabricates the sweatband with Hydrofil®, a modern fabric that keeps sweat away from your skin. The hat’s body is composed of Nylamtium®, a nylon that resists water and mildew.
The stitched brim is 3-1/2 inches on the front and back and 2-1/2 inches on the sides. You can use the adjustable ties for windy days. The Velcro closure on the small pocket in the crown safely holds a key, card, or cash.
Machine wash, air dry. Colors: Natural (with a green under-brim) or Khaki (with an olive under-brim). Made in Canada by Tilley Endurables.
We were recently honored by the visit of two highly distinguished cowboy arts craftsmen.
Alfredo Campos, from Federal Way Washington, is one of the world’s foremost horsehair hitchers. In 1999 he was honored with a National Heritage Fellowship from the National Endowment for the Arts. David and Alfredo have known and encouraged each other for a very long time. Alfredo provided a quirt or two for our old Ballard store.
A couple of weeks ago Alfredo brought his Argentinian friend, Pablo Lozano to our new location in Bothell. He was accompanied by translator and Floridian cowboy Domingo Hernandez.
Pablo learned much of his craft from Luis Alberto Flores of Buenes Aires whom David had corresponded with from 1966 until recently. Luis Flores had hosted Bruce Grant in Argentina and taught him techniques which appear in the Encyclopedia of Leather and Rawhide Braiding. Pablo showed us a braid (using kangaroo leather!) that Bruce Grant had not documented in his book.
Last fall we posted that Oprah would take an adventure to Australia. (See below.) We speculated that she was wearing a Cattleman.
Recently the Washington Post spotted her with Ralph Lauren at his ranch in Telluride, Colorado. She is indeed wearing a Cattleman. The color is regency fawn.
Original Post From Last February:
This December Oprah will go on an adventure to Australia with 300 of her fans.
We’re sure she’ll have a great trip, after all, she’s already got her hat. Speaking of hats, is that an Akubra Cattleman that she’s wearing?
New at David Morgan is the acorn colored Stylemaster. While our carbon gray is a fine neutral color that complements much of your wardrobe, the acorn works best with earth tones.
The Stylemaster is popular with men of all ages. The 2 1/2 inch brim is ideal with younger men and the overall elegance of the hat attracts those looking for a classic style.
The pinched telescope crown is 4 1/4 inches at the front, rising to 4 3/4 inches on the side and then down to 3 7/8 inches in the back. The bound edge adds a distinguished touch. The brim is usually snapped down in front and up in back.
Our trip to the January Western Equestrian Sales Association ( WESA ) in Denver was a success. The January show is larger than September’s, giving Will and Mike a chance to introduce Akubra Hats to more dealers (and make more friends).
We visited Chico Basin, a large working ranch that offers guest stays and educational programs.
American Cowboy recently issued a Collector’s Edition dedicated to John Wayne. Page 46 features a picture of Wayne in traditional western gear. They then list all of the places you can purchase similar items today. We are pleased that American Cowboy recommended David Morgan’s own Edge Ridge Hat Band. The article was written by accomplished Western Stylist Thea Marx.
All of our braided hat bands are made of kangaroo leather. Besides being one of the strongest leathers around, kangaroo leather is also supple and light. Not only do we use it for our hat bands, but also for our chin straps and whips.
